Woodwork Forums https://www.woodworkforums.com/ Discussion Forums for everything to do with woodworking and allied crafts. Includes employment, blogs, woodieswiki, wooden boats, woodworking women, disabled woodworking, and a whole lot more. en Tue, 09 Jun 2026 06:59:07 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.woodworkforums.com/images/misc/rss.png Woodwork Forums https://www.woodworkforums.com/ flexi pipe pieces https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263518&goto=newpost Sun, 07 Jun 2026 23:16:40 GMT came across this on a youtube site/page/thing Look good but only big enough for vacuum cleaner :( did some digging and found similar on a 3d printing site and have asked if it could be upgraded to 100mm Be ideal for drill press. cant find..... (male selective looking) anything commercial your thoughts................... came across this on a youtube site/page/thing
Look good but only big enough for vacuum cleaner :( did some digging and found similar on a 3d printing site and have asked if it could be upgraded to 100mm Be ideal for drill press.

cant find..... (male selective looking) anything commercial

your thoughts................... ]]> DUST EXTRACTION Tonyz https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263518 Manage Attachments Window Keeps on Self Opening https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263517&goto=newpost Sun, 07 Jun 2026 23:07:12 GMT Hi Neil. I uploaded a couple of pics from my Windows 10 laptop today and now find that the manage attachments window keeps on re-opening itself - when I'm off the forum.

The only peculiarity was that I shortly before the problem started tried to upload a scan in bitmap form - it sat without anything happening so I closed the window. It uploaded fine once converted to a .jpg

The window opens in greyed out form with a dialogue box saying that the token has expired. Clicking the OK button has no visisble effect but clicking the X closes the window - only for it to self open again some time later. X again closes it - only for it to re-open again.

I'd appreciate some advice on what to do to remove/kill it off - there's presumably a damaged file of some sort in play somewhere... ]]> Blackerty https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263517 Experience with Cigar Spokeshaves? https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263516&goto=newpost Sun, 07 Jun 2026 15:42:56 GMT I bought a small Lee Valley Preston pattern 5/8in radius cast round spokeshave https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/spokeshaves/71042-cast-round-spokeshave to blend the tight concave radius shoulder in the pic below (cut initially more roughly with a Forstner bit with the material in front then routed away) into the adjacent planed flat surface but ran into subtle but fundamental problems to do with the layout of the mouth. Does anybody have experience of fancier cigar... I bought a small Lee Valley Preston pattern 5/8in radius cast round spokeshave https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...und-spokeshave to blend the tight concave radius shoulder in the pic below (cut initially more roughly with a Forstner bit with the material in front then routed away) into the adjacent planed flat surface but ran into subtle but fundamental problems to do with the layout of the mouth.

Does anybody have experience of fancier cigar spokeshaves like the Millers Falls - or more recent variants like the Woodjoy?

The job as in the pic was successfully completed by paring across off a clamped on half circle guide block made using the same 40mm dia Forstner to an also clamped at the opposite side flat backing block with a sharp inside bevel gouge of slightly smaller radius than the shoulder - but it'd be nice to have a spokeshave able to handle tight radius curves.

The Lee Valley spokeshave was a disappointment. It's a low cost tool but not only did it have the previously reported irregularly ground sole the mouth (to accomodate the thick blade) is wide and gives rise to a jacking problem when transitioning from a flat surface to a tight curve or vice versa. The PM-V11 blade (unusually) wasn't very flat either.

The attached sketch illustrates the jacking issue. The sole drops down to rest on the lips to the front and rear of the mouth when planing a flat or near flat surface narrower than the cross-wise width of the mouth. This problem also arose on my wider job because the lands to both sides of the mouth opening were (possibly for reasons to do with the use of a flexible linishing belt or similar to grind the curved sole in the factory) reduced well below the cylindrical contour of of the rest of the sole.

The tool when working on a concave surface of radius a bit larger than that of the sole lifts up to rest on the cylindrical part of the sole - so that the blade edge previously set to cut on the straight/flat surface is lifted up off the work.

i.e. the tool can be set to take a shaving off a near flat surface or bevel and can separately be set with the edge further forward to cut on a concave surface as above - but it's not possible as was required in my job to blend a curve into a flat. This (a reverse stating of the issue described above) because the blade projection that cuts in a concave results after the tool drops down to rest on the mouth in far more depth of cut than is feasible on the flat surface.

The Millers Falls and it seems some other modern takes on small radius cigar and other spokeshaves (it's hard to be sure from the pics) went to considerable trouble to sidestep this jacking problem by reducing the front to rear width of the mouth to only just that necessary for a thin shaving to pass through.

They (MF) seem to have eliminated the requirement for an opening for the blade to pass through by giving it (the blade) a cylindrical lower surface which also functions as the rearwards part of the cylindrical sole - there is only the slit for the shaving ahead of the edge which if kept narrow should pretty much eliminate the jacking effect described above. A bevel up blade would as an alternative reduce the requirement for a wide mouth too.

I'm not sure about all that this video has to say but the diagrams illustrate the principle of the MF cylindrical section blade: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Weo96Jc4Gk

low res IMG_20260606_212513.jpg low res sketch lv shave mouth issue 7-6-26.jpg
Attached Images
]]> HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED Blackerty https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263516 Adelaidians https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263515&goto=newpost Sun, 07 Jun 2026 09:30:14 GMT anyone been to Harrisons Hardware in Parafield Gdns? anyone been to Harrisons Hardware in Parafield Gdns? ]]> WOODWORK - GENERAL Tonyz https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263515 150 Grit Diamand stone https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263513&goto=newpost Sat, 06 Jun 2026 11:50:10 GMT Hi All A few months ago, I acquired a 150 grit diamond plate. The thought was it would be handy for fixing chipped blades. In practice, though, where I was once starting sharping at 400 grit, now I start at 150 grit. It raises up in no time— the 150 grit generates quite visible steel dust/grit in the sharpening process, from there it’s just polishing off the scratches. I get to a polished / sharp edge considerably easier (quicker too) than I was doing before. (Note it is not a ... Hi All


A few months ago, I acquired a 150 grit diamond plate. The thought was it would be handy for fixing chipped blades.


In practice, though, where I was once starting sharping at 400 grit, now I start at 150 grit. It raises up in no time— the 150 grit generates quite visible steel dust/grit in the sharpening process, from there it’s just polishing off the scratches. I get to a polished / sharp edge considerably easier (quicker too) than I was doing before.


(Note it is not a high-end plate; I paid some $35 for the plate, but admittedly, I was in Japan at the time.)

Cheers M ]]> HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED MartinCH https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263513 replacement blade holder to suit a bosch PST680 EL jig saw. https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263511&goto=newpost Sat, 06 Jun 2026 04:41:29 GMT Iam not sure if i have the right forum for this request. looking for a company or parts supplier for above yig saw any advice would be appreciated. deckell. Iam not sure if i have the right forum for this request. looking for a company or parts supplier for above yig saw any advice would be appreciated. deckell. ]]> HAND TOOLS - POWERED deckell https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263511 Help with planer table alignment. https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263509&goto=newpost Fri, 05 Jun 2026 07:52:44 GMT I've recently had to replace the bevel gear that raises and lowers the table of my thicknesser. To make this easier as i had to move the machine away from the wall its against i removed the planer table. I could then more easily move the thicknesser section a little bit to access the panel at the rear to reach the bevel gears. This isn't an easy operation.
Anyway owing to some complications, i.e. incorrect replacement gears etc i ended up doing this about 4 times.

The last time the gears were replaced properly and the table raises and lowers as it should.

However I find that the outfeed table is not properly aligned to the infeed table.
So when i put a plank across it the last 50-60mm of the plank doesn't cross the cutters.

My question is

How do i readjust these tables?

thanks for looking

Frank

I have pics but for some reason cant upload them at the minute, so if anyone has ideas of how to adjust them without pics i'd very much appreciate it. ]]> JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETC mattocks https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263509 Walnut and cherry flip top https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263508&goto=newpost Fri, 05 Jun 2026 04:08:52 GMT This a small (118mm wide) flip top trinket box. Body is NG walnut with cherry sides. The lid lift is cherry laminated onto redgum. The cherry was salvaged from a firewood pile so only small pieces are usable because of splits and punky areas. Lining is pigskin split. Attachment 555803 (https://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=555803) Attachment 555805 (https://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=555805) This a small (118mm wide) flip top trinket box. Body is NG walnut with cherry sides. The lid lift is cherry laminated onto redgum.
The cherry was salvaged from a firewood pile so only small pieces are usable because of splits and punky areas.
Lining is pigskin split.

IMG20260602194807 [800x600].jpg IMG20260602194828 [800x600].jpg
Attached Images
]]> BOX MAKING labr@ https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263508 Spalted Casurina Cunningmamania https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263505&goto=newpost Thu, 04 Jun 2026 01:39:01 GMT Hi all,
long time since I posted anything here's a small trinket box made from a fallen tree in my local wet area called Prichard Park. I'd say the tree was dead standing for quite a while I could only scavenge 3 smaller branches. I have had them in quarantine in my garage for over a year now, split down on my bandsaw.

Casurina Box 1.jpgCasurina Box 3.jpgCasurina Box 4.jpgCasurina Box 2.jpg

The base is from the same tree no spalting in that branch

Cheers
woodentrinketboxes
Robert Perry
Attached Images
]]> BOX MAKING RGP https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263505 articulated hollowing heads https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263500&goto=newpost Tue, 02 Jun 2026 20:30:06 GMT Over the years I have made all sorts of articulated hollowing heads, some good. some a waste of time. Started out with bending a small arm, found I was builing a large to huge collection of bent arms :C that was cluttering up my wall space. Then got into basic one or two piece adjustable arms, still not really universal, so made one then two and thought krap this is going the same way as the fixed ones. After a few editions, ended up with using bicycle chain. What is shown here push bike... Over the years I have made all sorts of articulated hollowing heads, some good. some a waste of time. Started out with bending a small arm, found I was builing a large to huge collection of bent arms :C that was cluttering up my wall space. Then got into basic one or two piece adjustable arms, still not really universal, so made one then two and thought krap this is going the same way as the fixed ones. After a few editions, ended up with using bicycle chain.

What is shown here push bike chain and a 6mm Rolly Munro carbide cutter, scews are on top for a reason and this is because the force against the flexible chain set up actually tightens, if underneath it will tend to release its self with interesting consequences.
Attached Images
]]> WOODTURNING - GENERAL hughie https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263500 For some into pottery https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263499&goto=newpost Tue, 02 Jun 2026 06:52:08 GMT Nothing glorious about this. Pure function.
It'll get abused in use.

I've made a few molds recently for my daughter.
They're for her blates. A cross between a bowl and a plate.

Except this one looks more like a bowl to me.
Anyway. It's made from left over LVL beams I cut 2 circles and glued together.
Then fired up my old lathe I haven't used for about 20 years. That was interesting. :C

I managed the shape then cut a knob using 2 holesaw discs rounded over on my little table router.
I held it by the stalk. It worked well.
Cleaned up on the belt sander
A loose bolt through the centre held on an angle against the turning back side of the belt sander works wonders. It slowly rotates the knob and doesn't burn the timber.
Put a bolt through and screwed to base piece into a threaded insert.
She wants to be able to remove the knob otherwise it'd have been permanently screwed down.
17803818925742.jpg
The point of trepidation :o
17803818924751.jpg
Finished article with the bowl that inspired her.
17803818921000.jpg
No finish required. As said, rudimentary but does the job
Attached Images
]]> WOODWORK - GENERAL Avondale https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263499 Sliding Dovetail - Grain orientation https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263497&goto=newpost Tue, 02 Jun 2026 01:33:04 GMT Hi Folks, I have a new project that I am working on (lamp) that I want to incorporate a sliding dovetail into to align the legs as well as lock them into place. Due to the profile of the leg, I cannot route the sliding dovetail directly into the leg where it joins with the support. As it will be concealed, I had planned on routing the sliding dovetail and then gluing it to the leg, with the receiving dovetail channel being routed into the support. The sliding dovetail will not be glued into... Hi Folks,

I have a new project that I am working on (lamp) that I want to incorporate a sliding dovetail into to align the legs as well as lock them into place. Due to the profile of the leg, I cannot route the sliding dovetail directly into the leg where it joins with the support. As it will be concealed, I had planned on routing the sliding dovetail and then gluing it to the leg, with the receiving dovetail channel being routed into the support. The sliding dovetail will not be glued into the support (trying to come up with a flat pack solution), but I may end up placing a screw through the top support, through the sliding dovetail into the leg to help lock it all together when assembled.

My question is on the best orientation of the grain for the sliding dovetail component. In this instance, would I be best having the gain of the dovetail oriented vertical or horizontal?

A couple of things that I need to weigh up:
1. Having the grain oriented vertical will end up with an end grain to straight grain attachment of the leg.
2. Having the grain oriented horizontal will give straight grain to straight grain glue joint.
3. Would one option provide increased strength over the other or will it really be down to the strength of the glue.
4. Timber movement, which orientation is less likely to bind on the receiving dovetail channel over time.


Cheers

Stinky


Enscape_2026-06-02-10-43-08.jpgEnscape_2026-06-02-10-44-14.jpgEnscape_2026-06-02-10-45-00.jpgEnscape_2026-06-02-10-42-21.jpg
Attached Images
]]> WOODWORK - GENERAL Sir Stinkalot https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263497 Frustrating video, try not to yell as the screen. https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263495&goto=newpost Mon, 01 Jun 2026 02:37:52 GMT If you can watch this YouTube video (*American Reacts to the Dunkirk Evacuation (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sY6vkTMMu0Q)*) and not yell at the screen in frustration you may be either very young or have very good control over your feelings of frustration. :gaah: I just wanted to:smack: Some of the comments are very good. Some people just need to shut the hell up and listen without making assumptions (mostly naïve/dumb):doh: If you make it through to the end without screaming at the... If you can watch this YouTube video (American Reacts to the Dunkirk Evacuation) and not yell at the screen in frustration you may be either very young or have very good control over your feelings of frustration.
:gaah: I just wanted to:smack:

Some of the comments are very good.
Some people just need to shut the hell up and listen without making assumptions (mostly naïve/dumb):doh:

If you make it through to the end without screaming at the video you have great emotional control. :2tsup: ]]> NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK ubeaut https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263495 Bench saw guide https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263494&goto=newpost Sun, 31 May 2026 11:53:41 GMT Hi All


Wanted a new saw guide for my western saws.


Didn't develop a great one for standard bench hooks as they demand a largely horizontal cut, that quickly fills the gullets, slowing the cut. Plus the guide and even the base of the bench hook is damaged by the set tossing the guide and the chip protection at the base.
Considered a Frank Klausz flip stop but that had a few issues - first on the right side it would interfere with a vise operation, unless recessed. It would hold the timber necessarily square, restricting the ability to use the edge of the bench as a visual guide of the saws squareness to the timber - and as a lot of timbers are brittle using a fast low TPI saw would cause too much chip out.


So I made this little guide that is pegged to the bench (removable). The guide has some pluses. First, I can still cut on an angle to clear the gullets quickly. The lead section of the base is never cut. The edge of the bench is proving to be a great visual guide of the saws squareness. The cut is adjacent to the edge of the base and is proving decent chip protection, even when I bring out my big broadaxe 18 inch 10 TPI sash saw, with its monster backbone - Damage to the support edge, while not non-existent seems minimal and should last a long time.


Picture show (no guidelines drawn) that I am finding good accuracy that should only take a stroke or two to remove the saw marks on a shooting board.



IMG_8294.jpgIMG_8293.jpgIMG_8292.jpgIMG_8295.jpgIMG_8291.jpg

Cheers M
Attached Images
]]> HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED MartinCH https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263494 Sash clamp pins https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263493&goto=newpost Sun, 31 May 2026 07:32:01 GMT Hi All


Acquired a small collection of sash clamps over the years, all second hand, some aluminium dawns, record and others. One thing they had in common is they are all missing the chained-on locking pins. I don't know why— torn off in the panic of glues ? As I was gluing up the other day the "free" pins were annoying— dropping out from the holes and having to chasie them back down. Oh well, my mea culpa, should have fixed them sometime ago. Not a big fabrication job, so decidedabout time I fixed the darn things. But, had a thought work avoidance thought, since you can buy just about anything these days perhaps a quick search on the net and maybe I could buy some replacements for a few pennies. That thought found these - self-locking boat pins https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007870238343.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.1b171802a7gANe.


Not sure they will lock in. There might be too much clearance in the holes, but if they do work, it’s a neat trick—having pins that will not fall out as the sash is rotated.

Cheers M ]]> HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED MartinCH https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263493 Sherwood SWJSC-150-C Jointer Dust Port https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263491&goto=newpost Sat, 30 May 2026 22:27:04 GMT Hi all,

I bought a used Sherwood Jointer, model SWJSC-150-C with a spiral cutter head, photos below. I've only used it briefly but it seems to plane very well.

The issue I have is that it does not have a dust port, just a chute that spits out most of the chips down onto the floor. The chute is shown in the 3rd image below.

Does anyone else have this model of jointer and has attemped to create a better dust port for it? I have some ideas on how to do it but thought I'd ask around to see what people may already have done.

Thank you in advance for any advice,

653687900_2178220653003700_4725792445026479635_n.jpg 653735633_1967214597557551_6232188245538046125_n.jpg c8db41e6-2241-4fa3-9e70-3fcc320bccb1.jpg

Toni
Attached Images
]]> JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETC toni_k https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263491 Fitting a bailey chip breaker and accidently scraping a plane https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263490&goto=newpost Sat, 30 May 2026 09:48:39 GMT So I couldn’t help myself at the local antique store the other day - took pity on a very sorry looking no.4 for $30. With the discussion on chip breakers I thought I would document how I go about fitting a very worn and abused example. Recently, while fixing up the 10 1/4 I noticed the previous owner had bashed the working end of the chip breaker to produce a hump shape in the centre. While I have hammered on them before this one was by far the easiest to flatten that I have ever come... So I couldn’t help myself at the local antique store the other day - took pity on a very sorry looking no.4 for $30.

With the discussion on chip breakers I thought I would document how I go about fitting a very worn and abused example.

Recently, while fixing up the 10 1/4 I noticed the previous owner had bashed the working end of the chip breaker to produce a hump shape in the centre. While I have hammered on them before this one was by far the easiest to flatten that I have ever come across. I was shocked as it looked terrible.

So I thought I better give his method a go.

Before:
IMG_3228 (Medium).jpegIMG_3229 (Medium).jpegIMG_3230 (Medium).jpegIMG_3231 (Medium).jpeg

After hammering, see hammer marks on back of chip breaker. I used a 3lb lump hammer but a ball pein would work.
IMG_3244 (Medium).jpegIMG_3232 (Medium).jpegIMG_3233 (Medium).jpeg

Closing the gap:

IMG_3235 (Medium).jpegIMG_3236 (Medium).jpegIMG_3237 (Medium).jpegIMG_3238 (Medium).jpegIMG_3239 (Medium).jpegIMG_3241 (Medium).jpegIMG_3242 (Medium).jpegIMG_3243 (Medium).jpegIMG_3244 (Medium).jpegIMG_3245 (Medium).jpeg

The key to this method is having the corners turned down the whole way through and even leaving a tiny bit of light showing through the center right at the end - the lever cap will push that down to make a tight seal.

Its important to keep that slight hollow as you approach a flat and straight edge as it is all too easy to dub over the corners on a flat stone when dressing a chip breaker the normal way - ie. just rubbing it on a stone or sandpaper like pic 4. I found that method alone, while it does work, takes a lot of skill and time to get right. Even then you can still chase light getting through the corners and shavings jamming for hours.

Final results and a rough test:
IMG_3246 (Medium).jpegIMG_3250 (Medium).jpegIMG_3251 (Medium).jpegIMG_3248 (Medium).jpegIMG_3247 (Medium).jpeg

I somehow also ended up scraping this plane flat! I sometimes hack excess metal off the bottom of a plane that needs a lot of work with a scraper or sometimes an angle grinder. This time I was very unsatisfied with the results I was getting from the usual lapping so I took some bearing blue to my jointer and next thing I was full blown metal scraping. Must say that I'm very happy with how it turned out and it was much easier than I expected. Won't bother with lapping anymore.

Pre flattening:
IMG_3225 (Medium).jpegIMG_3226 (Medium).jpeg

First round:
IMG_3261 (Medium).jpegIMG_3262 (Medium).jpeg
Second round:
IMG_3263 (Medium).jpegIMG_3264 (Medium).jpeg
Third round and so on (about 6 rounds):
IMG_3265 (Medium).jpeg
Final result:
IMG_3266 (Medium).jpegIMG_3267 (Medium).jpeg

Enjoy, Tom
Attached Images
]]> HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED Tom03 https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=263490